Food & Drink
Gyoza Capital of Japan: Utsunomiya vs Hamamatsu
Two mid-sized cities have spent years fighting over which one eats the most gyoza, decided annually by a government statistics agency. Here's who's actually winning.
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Japan's convenience stores are genuinely good, which confuses everyone. Here is what to buy at 7-Eleven, Lawson and FamilyMart — and what each chain does best.
The hardest thing to explain to someone who has not been to Japan is that the convenience store food is good. Not "good for a petrol station" — actually good, made fresh daily, and cheap enough that skipping it on a budget trip is a mistake.
The three big chains between them run more than 50,000 stores across the country: 7-Eleven with around 21,200, FamilyMart with roughly 16,000, and Lawson with about 13,800 as of 2025. In central Tokyo you are rarely more than two minutes' walk from one, and they are open around the clock.
The onigiri shelf. Restocked multiple times a day; anything close to expiry gets pulled.
Onigiri (rice balls), ¥130–250. The single best value item in Japan. Tuna mayo (sea chicken) and grilled salmon (sake) are the safe defaults; ume is a sour pickled plum that divides people sharply. The wrapper is engineered to keep the nori separate from the rice until you open it — follow the numbered tabs in order and it works perfectly.
Egg sandwiches (tamago sando), around ¥250. Improbably famous, genuinely excellent, and the one item almost every food writer who visits Japan ends up writing about.
Karaage-kun and hot counter items. Fried chicken by the register, ¥250–400. Lawson's is the best known.
Oden, in winter. A vat of simmering dashi by the counter holding daikon, boiled eggs, fish cakes and konjac. You point; they ladle. Around ¥100–200 an item.
Chilled coffee cups, ¥110–180. Take the plastic cup of ice from the freezer to the register, pay, then fill it at the machine. The coffee is better than it has any business being.
Bento boxes sit alongside onigiri. Staff will offer to heat them — say "onegaishimasu" for yes.
This is the part that surprises people more than the sandwiches:
Put your money in the small tray on the counter rather than handing it over. Staff will ask if you want your bento heated ("atatamemasu ka?") — nodding works. Bags are no longer free by default; you will be asked and charged a few yen. And eating while walking is mildly frowned upon, which is why you will see people standing beside the store to finish a drink or an onigiri before moving on — the same instinct behind the recycling bin next to every vending machine.
If you are travelling on a budget, the konbini is the single biggest lever you have. Two konbini meals and one proper restaurant dinner a day is a genuinely pleasant way to eat in Japan, and it costs a fraction of what most cost guides assume.
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