Travel
Climbing Mount Fuji in 2026: Rules, Fees, and Permits
Mount Fuji's free-for-all climbing era is over. What the mandatory ¥4,000 fee, the Yoshida Trail cap, and the new curfew actually mean for your climb.
旅
Everyone is heading to the same five spots in Kyoto and Tokyo. Here is why 2026 is a good year to go anyway — and the places to see instead of the postcard shots.
Japan has been at the top of everyone's travel list for a few years running now, and for good reason: the food is extraordinary, the trains actually run on time, and there is a genuine sense of discovery even after your third or fourth trip. If you have been putting off a visit, here is the honest case for going in 2026 — and a route that skips the worst of the crowds.
The exchange rate still favours foreign visitors. The yen has spent the last few years weaker against most major currencies than it was a decade ago, which means hotel nights, meals, and shopping stretch noticeably further than they used to. That alone changes the maths on a trip that might have felt indulgent before.
Flight capacity has recovered. Direct routes from North America, Europe, and Australia that were cut during the pandemic have largely been restored or expanded, and new low-cost carrier routes into regional airports (Fukuoka, Sapporo, Okinawa) make it easier to skip Tokyo and Osaka entirely if you want to.
The crowding problem is real, but avoidable. Overtourism in central Kyoto and parts of Tokyo is a genuine issue, well documented at this point. The fix is not to avoid Japan — it is to avoid the same six neighbourhoods everyone else is standing in.
Kenrokuen is ranked as one of Japan's three great gardens — and rarely feels crowded.
Kanazawa spent centuries as a wealthy castle town that Kyoto's political rivals largely left alone, which is why so much of its old fabric survived intact and undamaged by war. The Higashi Chaya geisha district still has the original wooden latticework and teahouses you picture when someone says "traditional Japan," except here you can actually see them without a wall of phones in the frame. Kenrokuen, one of Japan's three officially designated "great gardens," is arguably more impressive than anything in Kyoto and rarely feels crowded even in high season. The city is compact enough to cover on foot or by the cheap and frequent Kanazawa Loop Bus, and the seafood at Omicho Market is some of the best in the country thanks to the Sea of Japan on the doorstep. Since the Hokuriku Shinkansen extension opened, Kanazawa is roughly two and a half hours from Tokyo — closer than it looks on a map, and an easy add-on to any itinerary that already includes Kyoto or Osaka. Two full days is enough to see it properly without feeling rushed.
Yayoi Kusama's Yellow Pumpkin has become the unofficial symbol of Naoshima's art scene.
Naoshima is a small island in the Seto Inland Sea that a single company, Benesse, quietly turned into one of the most concentrated collections of contemporary art and architecture anywhere in Japan. Tadao Ando designed several of the museums directly into the hillside, so the buildings themselves are as much the exhibit as anything hanging inside them. Yayoi Kusama's polka-dot Yellow Pumpkin sits on a small pier facing the sea and has become the island's unofficial mascot — you have probably seen it online without knowing where it was. Beyond the headline museums, the island is dotted with old houses converted into individual art installations under the Art House Project, which rewards slow wandering rather than a checklist approach. Rent a bicycle at the port and the whole island is manageable in a single day, though staying overnight lets you see the museums without the day-trip crowds arriving from Okayama and Takamatsu. It does not look, feel, or photograph like anywhere else in Japan, which is precisely the appeal.
The Shimanami Kaido links Honshu and Shikoku across six islands and some of the most photographed bridges in Japan.
The Shimanami Kaido is a roughly 70-kilometre cycling route that crosses six small islands in the Seto Inland Sea via a chain of suspension bridges, running between Onomichi on Honshu and Imabari on Shikoku. Dedicated cycling lanes run separately from car traffic for almost the entire route, marked by a simple blue line painted on the road so you never need to check a map. Bikes, including electric options for anyone not training for a stage race, can be rented at either end and dropped off at the other, so there is no need to double back. A full, relaxed crossing takes about a day with stops, though a half-day out-and-back from either end still covers the most dramatic bridge sections. The small islands along the way have citrus groves, seafood restaurants, and almost no other tourists, which is a strange thing to say about one of the most photographed cycling routes in the country. Go on a clear day if you can — the combination of bridges, islands, and open water is the reason people fly in with their own bikes just to ride it once.
Matsumoto is one of only twelve Japanese castles still standing in their original form.
Most of Japan's famous castles, including Osaka and Nagoya, are concrete reconstructions built after the originals burned down or were dismantled. Matsumoto is one of just twelve castles in the country still standing in their original form, and its black-and-white keep reflected in the surrounding moat is arguably the most photogenic of the lot. Because Matsumoto sits in Nagano prefecture rather than on the well-worn Tokyo–Kyoto–Osaka line, it gets a fraction of the visitors that Himeji or Osaka Castle do, despite being just as impressive up close. The steep original wooden staircases inside were not built for modern hips or tour groups, which naturally keeps the pace slow and the crowds thin by castle standards. The town around it is small, walkable, and calm, with a well-preserved old merchant quarter and some of the best soba in the country a short walk from the castle gate. It also makes a natural base for day trips into the Japan Alps, including the Kamikochi valley, if you want mountains alongside your castles. A single overnight is enough to see the castle properly and eat well without feeling rushed.
The moss-covered forest trails of Yakushima feel like stepping into a different era.
Yakushima is a small, mountainous island off the southern tip of Kyushu, covered in ancient cedar forest that UNESCO listed as a World Heritage Site in 1993. Some of the yakusugi cedar trees are estimated to be over a thousand years old, and a few are claimed to be closer to seven thousand, though the exact age is disputed and largely unknowable. The most famous tree, Jomon Sugi, requires a demanding ten-hour round-trip hike to reach, but the shorter Shiratani Unsuikyo trail delivers nearly the same primeval, moss-drenched atmosphere in a two-to-three-hour loop suitable for most fitness levels. Studio Ghibli has never officially confirmed it, but the forest is widely reported to have inspired the setting of Princess Mononoke, and walking through the mist-covered moss it is not hard to see why. The island gets an enormous amount of rain, so pack for it regardless of season, and check trail conditions before committing to the longer hikes. It is a genuinely different register of Japan travel: no temples, no neon, just extremely old trees and a very quiet kind of awe. Reaching it requires a short flight or ferry from Kagoshima, which keeps numbers naturally low even in peak season.
Cherry blossom season (late March to early April) and autumn foliage (November) are spectacular and also when everywhere is busiest and most expensive. Late spring (May, before the rainy season) and early winter (late November to early December, after peak foliage) offer good weather with noticeably fewer people and lower hotel rates.
However you plan it, the country rewards a slower pace and a slightly less obvious route more than almost anywhere else. Pick two or three regions rather than trying to see everything, and leave room to wander.
動画で見る
Watch the related Japan Off Script episode
購読
New guides on Japanese culture, food and travel. No spam, unsubscribe any time.
コメント
関連記事
Travel
Mount Fuji's free-for-all climbing era is over. What the mandatory ¥4,000 fee, the Yoshida Trail cap, and the new curfew actually mean for your climb.
Travel
Almost every famous 'castle' on a Japan itinerary is a 20th-century rebuild. Only twelve still have a keep that actually predates 1868 — here's which ones.
Travel
Osaka gets treated as a Kyoto side trip, which undersells it badly. A tight one-day route covering the castle, Shinsekai, and Dotonbori properly.