Culture
Yokai: The Real Places Behind Japan's Monster Folklore
Yokai are having a very online second life through anime, but the folklore is centuries old and tied to real, visitable places — starting with a Tottori port town.
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Mask-wearing in Japan predates the pandemic by a century and has never been mainly about avoiding illness. The real reasons are hay fever, etiquette, and something more subtle.
Visitors often assume mask-wearing in Japan is a pandemic habit that stuck. It is much older than that, and the reasons for it are more varied than public health alone.
Japan's mask culture traces to the influenza pandemic of 1918, when authorities promoted mask-wearing as a civic duty with a poster campaign and a slogan. Unlike in most countries, the habit did not fade once the pandemic did. Through the 1930s and 1940s it settled into an accepted part of the social code, reinforced by later epidemics and by the country's dense urban living.
By the time COVID-19 arrived, masks had been ordinary consumer items in Japan for the better part of a century — sold in every pharmacy and convenience store, in a range of sizes, materials and scents.
Post-war cedar plantations, planted for timber and never fully harvested, are the source of Japan's hay fever problem.
Kafunshō — Japanese cedar and cypress hay fever — is close to a national affliction. Estimates commonly put the share of the population affected during the February-to-April cedar season at around 30–40%.
The cause is a direct result of policy. After the Second World War, Japan replanted enormous areas of deforested hillside with fast-growing sugi (Japanese cedar). Cheap imported timber then undercut the domestic market, the forests were never harvested at the scale planned, and the country was left with vast mature cedar plantations releasing pollen every spring.
If you visit in March and notice that a substantial fraction of the people around you are masked, red-eyed and miserable, this is why — and it has nothing to do with contagion.
The official guidance moved to "personal choice" in 2023, and the visible outcome is a mixed picture that continues to shift. Masks are noticeably more common among staff in service roles, on packed commuter trains, in medical settings, and during pollen season. Plenty of people wear none at all.
For visitors, the practical position is simple: there is no requirement, and you will not be challenged either way. A mask is worth carrying for a crowded train, a clinic visit, or a spring trip if you are prone to hay fever — all of which are available at any convenience store for a few hundred yen.
The mask is a useful window into a broader pattern in Japanese public life — the same instinct that produces quiet train carriages, drinking your canned coffee beside the vending machine rather than walking with it, and taking your rubbish home. The organising idea is not rule-following for its own sake; it is a strong default assumption that your behaviour in shared space is other people's business.
Once you notice that thread, a lot of otherwise puzzling things about daily life in Japan stop being puzzling.
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