Culture
Japan's Onsens Are Quietly Dropping the Tattoo Ban
The 'no tattoos at onsen' rule is one of the most repeated pieces of Japan travel advice, and it's slowly becoming less true. Here's where things actually stand.
文化
Yokai are having a very online second life through anime, but the folklore is centuries old and tied to real, visitable places — starting with a Tottori port town.
Yokai — the broad category of monsters, spirits, and supernatural oddities in Japanese folklore — are enjoying a very online second life through anime, but the folklore itself is centuries old and tied to real, visitable places, not just fiction.
The clearest example is Mizuki Shigeru Road, an 800-metre shopping street in Sakaiminato, a port town on the Tottori coast. It's lined with 177 bronze statues of yokai, almost all drawn from the work of Shigeru Mizuki, the manga artist born in the town who is most responsible for yokai's modern pop-culture image through his series GeGeGe no Kitaro.
The street wasn't always like this. It opened in 1993 with just 23 statues as part of a "greenery and culture" town-revitalisation project — a fairly modest attempt to give a declining port town something to draw visitors. It worked well enough that statues kept being added for decades, turning what was originally an ordinary shopping street into one of Tottori's biggest tourist draws.
One of 177 bronze yokai statues lining Mizuki Shigeru Road — expanded from an original 23 installed in 1993.
Before they were manga characters, yokai functioned as a kind of folk explanation for the unexplained — strange noises in old houses, drownings blamed on kappa (river spirits), disappearances blamed on tengu (mountain goblins). Specific yokai are still tied to specific real places in local folklore: certain bridges, wells, and forests across Japan carry yokai stories the way parts of the US carry ghost-story lore, and some of these sites still have small shrines or markers referencing the legend.
Anime and manga have pulled yokai back into global pop culture — GeGeGe no Kitaro adaptations, Yokai Watch, and countless yokai cameos in other series — and that's translating into real travel interest in the folklore's actual anchors, not just Tokyo's anime shops. It sits in the same bucket as anime pilgrimage travel more broadly: fans increasingly want to see the places behind the fiction, and yokai folklore happens to have an unusually concrete, mappable version of that.
It's accessible from Yonago Kitaro Airport — yes, that's the airport's actual branding — or by train via the JR Sakai Line, whose trains are themselves decorated with yokai characters. The Mizuki Shigeru Memorial Museum sits at the end of the road and is worth visiting alongside the statues.
動画で見る
Watch the related Japan Off Script episode
購読
New guides on Japanese culture, food and travel. No spam, unsubscribe any time.
コメント
関連記事
Culture
The 'no tattoos at onsen' rule is one of the most repeated pieces of Japan travel advice, and it's slowly becoming less true. Here's where things actually stand.
Culture
Not an onsen, not a spa — the sento is a regulated, cheap, deeply local institution that's vanishing fast. What makes it different, and why it's worth seeking out now.
Culture
They are different religions with different rules, and almost every visitor mixes them up. How to tell a shrine from a temple, and what to do at each.