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Yokai: The Real Places Behind Japan's Monster Folklore
Yokai are having a very online second life through anime, but the folklore is centuries old and tied to real, visitable places — starting with a Tottori port town.
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One means "capital," the other means "eastern capital." The story of how Japan's two most famous cities ended up with names that are really just one name, said twice.
Most people never notice it, but Tokyo and Kyoto are not two unrelated place names. They are the same word, arranged twice, with one small but important difference — and once you see it, you cannot unsee it every time you read a map of Japan.
Break down the kanji and there is barely a name there at all: 京 (kyō) means capital, and 都 (to) also means capital, or metropolis. Put together, 京都 (Kyōto) reads literally as something close to "Capital Capital" — the city's name is not really a name, it is a job title.
The Kyoto Imperial Palace. Kyoto held this role for over a thousand years before Tokyo took it.
When the city was founded in 794 as the new seat of the imperial court, it was formally named Heian-kyō — "the capital of peace and tranquility." Over the following centuries, as it remained the unquestioned seat of the emperor, people simply started calling it Kyō, or Miyako: the Capital, no further explanation needed, the way Londoners might just say "town." Eventually that shorthand solidified into the doubled-up 京都 still used today.
Before 1868, the city now called Tokyo was named Edo (江戸), a name with a much more modest origin: 江 (e) means inlet or bay, and 戸 (to) means door or entrance. Edo was, in other words, "the bay's front door" — an accurate description of a fishing and castle town sitting where the Sumida River meets Tokyo Bay.
Everything changed in 1868, during the Meiji Restoration, when the emperor relocated from Kyoto to Edo and the city needed a name that reflected its sudden promotion to capital of Japan. The solution was almost administrative in its simplicity: take the same 京 (kyō, capital) used in Kyoto, and add 東 (tō, east) in front of it, since the city sits east of the old capital. The result, 東京 (Tōkyō), means exactly what it looks like: Eastern Capital.
The Imperial Palace in Tokyo now occupies the site of Edo Castle, the seat of the shogun before the capital moved here in 1868.
Once you know this, the relationship between the two cities' names stops being a coincidence and starts looking almost too tidy: Kyoto is "the Capital," and Tokyo is "the Capital, but the eastern one." They were named in direct reference to each other, at the exact moment power shifted from one to the other — and, as it turns out, that shift was never actually made official (more on that below).
Here's the part most explanations skip: 京都 (Kyōto) didn't start out as this city's name at all. Across East Asia, 京 (kyō) and the related term 京師 (keishi) were simply the common word for "wherever the emperor's court is" — a generic noun for "the capital," used the same way English uses "the capital" for any country's seat of government, not a specific place.
Heian-kyō held that role so completely, for so long, that people stopped needing to say which capital they meant. By the late Heian period the generic phrase "京の都" (the capital's capital, roughly) had contracted into 京都, and by the Kamakura period it had solidified into a proper place name. The city's name is, quite literally, the common noun "capital" that never got un-adopted once it became permanent — the linguistic equivalent of a city called "Downtown" or "The City" existing so long that "The City" became its actual legal name.
This is the detail that surprises people who go looking for it: when the Meiji government moved the emperor to Edo in 1868, it never issued a formal decree of sento (遷都) — "transferring the capital," a term that implies stripping the old one of its status. Instead, the government deliberately used the softer term tento (奠都), meaning roughly "establishing a capital," specifically to avoid provoking the Kyoto court nobility and townspeople, who were furious about the move.
The practical result is that no Japanese law has ever formally revoked Kyoto's status as capital. It's settled entirely by convention — everyone treats Tokyo as the capital because that's where the government functions, not because a statute says so. Older residents of Kyoto have been known to point this out only half-jokingly: technically, the emperor's 1868 move to Tokyo has never been made permanent on paper.
Heian-kyō's famous checkerboard layout — wide avenues running north-south and east-west, the city split by the central Suzaku Avenue into a "left capital" and "right capital" — wasn't a Japanese invention. It was a close copy of Chang'an, the capital of Tang-dynasty China, using a city-planning system called jōbōsei (条坊制) that Japan imported wholesale after embassies to the Tang court brought back detailed accounts of how the Chinese built their capital cities.
One detail didn't get copied, though: city walls. Chang'an and other Chinese capitals were heavily walled against invasion from the steppe. Japan, as an island nation with no equivalent land-invasion threat, built the grid but skipped the fortifications — Heian-kyō was laid out like a fortress city that was never actually worried about being attacked.
Kyoto (京都) is built from two characters that both independently mean "capital": 京 (kyō) and 都 (to). Together they read literally as something like "Capital Capital" — the city's name isn't really a name, it's the generic Japanese word for "the seat of the imperial court," which stuck permanently once Kyoto had held that role, uncontested, for centuries.
There's no Japanese law that formally names a capital city at all. When the emperor moved to Tokyo in 1868, the government deliberately avoided declaring a sento (transfer of the capital) and used the softer term tento (establishing a capital) instead, specifically to avoid stripping Kyoto of its status on paper. Tokyo functions as the capital by long-standing convention, not by statute.
The city was founded in 794 as Heian-kyō ("the capital of peace and tranquility"). "Kyoto" itself started as a generic noun — 京都 simply meant "the capital" across East Asia — and only solidified into this specific city's proper name between the late Heian and Kamakura periods, once there was no longer any doubt which capital people meant.
Tokyo (東京) was built the same way: 東 (tō, east) plus 京 (kyō, capital) — "Eastern Capital." When Edo was renamed after the 1868 move, it reused the same "capital" character already embedded in Kyoto's name, making the two cities' names a matched pair by design, not coincidence.
Understanding that Kyoto and Tokyo's names are literally paired makes the geography of Japan click into place in a way a map alone does not: one city is the capital by tradition, the other by function, and the country has quietly run on that arrangement for over 150 years. If you are planning a trip that covers both, our 48-hour Kyoto itinerary and guide to visiting Japan beyond the obvious stops are good next reads.
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